Readers share tips from their trips


The pandemic has taken a toll on travel, but many people are starting to venture to destinations that they only dreamed of visiting the past two-plus years.

Or maybe you are staying a bit closer to home for your adventures, and that’s great, too!

Hello, Columbus would love to have a photo of you and your family or friends at your travel destinations.

Regardless of whether you are sending us a photo from near or far, choose a vacation photo showing you, your companions and the Travel page, and send it to The Dispatch.

Make sure to include the names and hometowns of the people pictured, from left to right; where the photo was taken; a tip to help other travelers; and contact information for you in case we have questions. But please, no submissions from previous years.

Submissions can be emailed to Becky Kover, bkover@dispatch.com



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‘Really cool, day or night’: readers’ top modern European architecture | Europe holidays


Winning tip: Tickle Knut Hamsun’s spine in Norway

The Hamsun Centre in Hamarøy, northern Norway (a couple of hours by boat from Bodø), is dedicated to Norway’s most famous novelist, Knut Hamsun (1859-1952), hailed by many as the father of modern Norwegian literature. Designed by the American architect Steven Holl, the striking building, which dominates the landscape for miles, offers references to the man and his work, including “hair” on its head (the roof), a metallic “spine” running through the building and a beckoning hand (a yellow balcony jutting out from the dark facade).
M Peyre

Music of the pods in Rome

The lead shells of The Auditorium
Photograph: Christine Webb /Alamy

Sala Santa Cecilia looks like a giant silver beetle or, possibly, a computer mouse. It’s one of three metallic-roofed “pods”, each with specific acoustic features, which are part of the vast complex making up Parco della Musica Auditorium. Designed by Renzo Piano, and finished in 2002, it stands on the site of the 1960 Olympic Park on the outskirts of Rome. Though the pods are definitely modernist, the 2,700-capacity outdoor theatre is a clear nod to ancient Rome, as is the use of Travertine marble throughout. We enjoyed the timeless experience of listening to music in the balmy Italian evening air.
Sherry

Grayson Perry’s secret gingerbread cottage, Essex

A House for Essex by Grayson Perry
Photograph: Tony Watson/Alamy

The tiny village of Wrabness in north Essex hosts Grayson Perry’s A House for Essex. Five years in the making, it was designed as a shrine to the fictional character Julie Cope. This folly is the gingerbread house out of the Hansel and Gretel fairytale. The building, clad in colourful relief tiles with a bright gold roof, has been compared to a Scandinavian stave church or a Russian chapel. Set in a tranquil landscape with views over green fields to the Stour estuary, it is a must if you ever find yourself in “England’s most misunderstood country”.
Alison Barker

Cocktails with Le Corbusier, Marseille

Roof Terrace of the Modernist & Brutalist Cite Radieuse or Unite d’Habitation, Marseille
Photograph: Chris Hellier/Alamy

Take a tour of common areas and a typical apartment at Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation in Marseille, France. Snap ’grammable details like the modernist stained glass in the lobby or the bold doors, handles and light fittings in the corridors. Soak up the sun on the azure tiles and crisp concrete of the rooftop, then admire the ingenious pan cupboard in the flat’s original kitchen cabinets. End up in the bar, where you can sit, sip a slow apéro and watch the sunset. Tip: chat to the concierge on the desk at the entrance or the server behind the bar for more local knowledge.
Judith Moore

Slide down a giant’s leg, Valencia

Gulliver playground in Valencia
Photograph: agefotostock/Alamy

I recommend Gulliver (from Jonathan Swift’s novel) at Gulliver Park, Valencia, Spain. It is a great modern structure for kids to enjoy. It is in fact a playground based on Giant Gulliver. He is lying on the ground and the different parts of him form stairs and slides for the children to play on! Entrance is free but do check the opening hours as they can vary. The park is in the east part of the Túria Gardens, close to the City of Arts and Sciences, another fine modern structure in Valencia.
Sue O’Brien

Straddle continents in the Dardanelles

1915 Canakkale Bridge at dawn with lights
Photograph: Ahmet Pektas/Getty Images

Cross from Asia to Europe in just 13 minutes: that’s how long it will take you to traverse the brand-new 1915 Çanakkale Bridge, straddling the Dardanelles strait, 40 miles north-east of the ancient city of Troy, across to the Gallipoli peninsula on the north side, a little way west of Istanbul. The bridge, which boasts the longest suspension span in the world, is a beautiful structure in its own right – like a sleek 21st-century version of San Francisco’s Golden Gate. The main attraction here, though, has to be the incredible views along the Dardanelles towards the Sea of Marmara to one side and the open Mediterranean to the other.
Jayne Pearson

A close encounter in Graz

Kunsthaus Graz Dusk.
Photograph: Alamy

I staggered off the night train from Venice recently in Graz, Austria, and decided to go for an early-morning walk around the old town. When I came across a huge alien spaceship-type construction, I had to pinch myself then drink some strong coffee. The Kunsthaus is a surreal structure, a modern art gallery built in 2003, and it looks even more stunning at night when 1,000 solar lights come on – it looks like it’s getting ready for takeoff.
Greta

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage

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A whale basks by the Danube, Budapest

Balna building, Budapest
Photograph: Alamy

The Bálna (“whale”) in Budapest, Hungary, is a large-scale, glass-fronted building on the bank of the Danube near the Great Market Hall. It is a mixed-use building, with shops, cafes, bars and a great art gallery focusing primarily on contemporary art. It has a fantastic terrace with great views on the city, but the architecture itself is also very interesting: designed by Dutch architect Kas Oosterhuis, it is a mixture of historic brick warehouses and a striking hi-tech metal-glass structure. Visiting is completely free; for more info see balnabudapest.hu.
Magdolna Decker

Gorgeous distortion, Prague

Prague Dancing House
Photograph: Alamy

The Dancing House in Prague, sometimes nicknamed “Fred and Ginger”, is a really cool structure. It was built in the early 1990s – I think that qualifies as modern in architecture! It’s so unusual because it sticks out from the gothic/baroque architecture that Prague is known for. It’s right on the river in the New Town district. When I saw it for the first time, it really gave the impression that it was falling into itself, sort of like when a fantasy/sci-fi movie visualises a black hole orwormhole, where everything becomes distorted and hard structures appear liquid. Really cool, day or night.
Jordan Gale

A metal net of geometric shapes, Pristina

National Lublic library in Prishtina – Kosovo
Photograph: Leonid Andronov/Getty Images

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder” certainly applies to the National Library of Kosovo, in Pristina. On its inauguration in 1982, the head of the Communist party asked why the scaffolding hadn’t been removed. However, I found the distinctive cube and dome features, relics from the Byzantine and Ottoman tradition, intriguing. It looked as though a metal net of geometric shapes had been thrown over the exterior, while 99 cupolas of varying sizes added beauty and flooded the reading rooms with natural light. Inside, we found the entrance walls adorned with copper börek-shaped coils and silver filigree panels studded with precious stones.
Helen Jackson



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‘Enticed through the gates of heaven’: readers’ best French beaches | Travel


Winning tip: As seen from a train window, Côte d’Azur

We spotted the beach at Èze-sur-Mer on the train back to Nice after a hot sweaty day trip to Monaco – we couldn’t resist jumping off the train and heading down for a dip in the clear water we saw. A long wide bay, framed by mountains felt a million miles away from the crowded beaches in Nice – and as an added bonus for anyone who has almost broken their ankles on the rocks at Nice, this beach is of small smooth pebbles. A small slice of paradise on the busiest section of the Côte d’Azur.
Jake A

Pining for the Vendée

Noirmoutier has several great beaches such as Dames (pictured).
Noirmoutier has several great beaches such as Dames (pictured) and Barbȃtre. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

The island of Noirmoutier, off the Vendée coast, is a cyclist’s and beach-lover’s paradise. The Noirmoutier Bridge is toll-free, spectacular and has a bike lane. Time your journey right and you can also cross via the beautiful Passage du Gois causeway. Once on the island there is a variety of beaches to choose from. Our favourite is the seven-kilometre-long Barbȃtre beach. It has a long stretch of fine golden sand, backed by pine forests, and you can find solitude and relaxation, or take part in activities including sand-yachting and windsurfing. The nearby nature reserve, Sébastopol Polder, offers great birdwatching.
ile-noirmoutier.com
Kevin

Hive of activities, Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Contis-Plage
Contis-Plage. Photograph: Alamy

With a modest hipster, surfer presence but retaining the quaint qualities of the French coast, Contis-Plage, in the Landes department about 110km south of Bordeaux, is simply a great beach. With a large but rather upmarket camping, a relatively swanky hotel and lots of rentals, Contis caters to all. As well as surf and two superb beaches (the main one and the slightly more remote Contis Sud) it offers a calm river for paddleboarding and a pine forest to cycle in..
cotelandesnaturetourisme.co.uk
Victoria

Plonk yourself in a calanque, near Marseille

Calanque d’En Vau.
Calanque d’En Vau. Photograph: Janos Gaspar/Alamy

Tucked away in the sheltered bays between Marseille and Cassis are Les Calanques (defined as narrow steep sided coves) and my favourite beach: Calanque d’en Vau. The hour hike from Cassis along cliff tops on pine-perfumed paths offers a heavenly reward – a descent down steps cut into limestone cliffs to a celestial cove of pebbles and sand and clear turquoise waters. It’s like being enticed through the gates of heaven. Take plenty of water and a good book and sink into the sand for the rest of the day, enjoying the views of the jagged cliffs, the lush vegetation and the air.
Yasmin

Untamed and glittering, Provence

Plage Notre-Dame
Plage Notre-Dame, Île de Porquerolles. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

East of Toulon is Île de Porquerolles, largest of the Îles d’Hyères. A remote stretch of sand separates the untamed trees from the glittering sea – Plage Notre-Dame. Stepping off the €24 ferry from Hyères the only way to reach the beach is on foot or by bicycle; there are no cars allowed on the island. This makes for a peaceful journey through a pine forest, easily traversed in trainers or flip-flops. As you approach the beach from the cliffs above there is a breathtaking view of the unspoiled sand. It’s also a very safe beach – shallow water caused by a sandbank means you can walk out to sea for about 300 metres.
hyeres-tourism.co.uk
Alexandra Richards

Fauvism and sand, Côte de Vermeille

Collioure.
Collioure has a lovely bay but our tipster recommends a beach a short walk away. Photograph: Stefano Politi Markovina/Alamy

Imagine St Ives but on the stunning Côte de Vermeille, on the Med near the border with Spain. Galleries, cafes and restaurants line car-free shady alleys. Collioure wraps itself around the perfect arc of the bay and brightly coloured houses hang on hillsides. You can wander in the footsteps of Matisse and Derain, who invented fauvism here. Take a coffee in one of the portside cafes and then feel the warm sand between your toes and paddle on one of the four beaches. But if the bustle is too much, my secret tip is a 30-minute hike north-east over the cliffs to sand-and-pebble Plage de l’Ouille. No roads come to this enchanted spot.
Simon

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage

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Oysters and cider, Carantec, west Brittany

Plage du Kelenn, Carantec
Plage du Kelenn. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

There are countless fabulous near-deserted beaches all over Brittany but our family’s favourite is the beautiful Plage du Kelenn in Carantec. It has everything youngsters could possibly need. Golden sand but with a scattering of rock pools, a bit of surf but not too rough and a cracking diving board. For the grownups I can heartily recommend the oysters and Breton cider at the friendly Paradiso Plage restaurant.
Matt Croxall

Beach of my dreams, Dinard, east Brittany

Plage du Prieuré
Plage du Prieuré. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

I found the idyllic beach of my dreams at Prieuré, just south of Dinard on the Côte d’Émeraude. It’s easy to get to: just catch a ferry to Saint-Malo from Portsmouth then cross the Rance estuary by ferry in 20 minutes, or drive round (also 20 minutes). Plage du Prieuré is a super sandy crescent with a gently sloping shore, a flowery promenade, rock pools to the west, foodie delights to the east, and even beachcombing treasures.
Kate Harris

Hulot’s haven, south Brittany

Saint-Marc-sur-Mer and Plage de Monsieur Hulot
Saint-Marc-sur-Mer and Plage de Monsieur Hulot. Photograph: Andia/Getty Images

When the great French film director Jacques Tati was looking for the perfect beach setting for the adventures of his endearing clown, Monsieur Hulot, he was thrilled to find Saint-Marc-sur-Mer. On Brittany’s Atlantic Coast and easy to get to from Nantes, the beach itself is the star. Not a lot has changed since 1951. We stayed in the hotel that served as the film’s backdrop, walked along the accessible clifftops to adjoining beaches suitable for solo travellers, families and even nudists, and paused for selfies with the lifesize statue of Hulot, still casting a quizzical eye over this magical spot.
Robert Massey

Family affair, Normandy

Plage de Carolles
Plage de Carolles. Photograph: Herve Lenain/Alamy

A family favourite beach in Normandy is Plage de Carolles, in the bay of Mont Saint-Michel near Granville (which provides an excellent back-up in wet weather). With excellent sandy stretches and rock pools overlooked by cliffs and the occasional hang glider, we’ve spent many happy days on holiday here searching for cockles, mussels and other shellfish before eating moules-frites at its cafes or picnicking with fresh baguettes and salad before driving back to a cottage in the beautiful Normandy countryside, sun-baked and sandy.
Alice



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Readers from the Columbus area share travel tips


The pandemic has taken a toll on travel during the past two years, but many people are starting to venture to destinations that they only dreamed of visiting the past two-plus years.

Or maybe you are staying a bit closer to home for your adventures, and that’s great, too!

Hello, Columbus would love to have a photo of you and your family or friends at your travel destinations. Regardless of whether you are sending us a photo from near or far, choose a vacation photo showing you, your companions and the Travel page, and send it to The Dispatch. Make sure to include the names and hometowns of the people pictured, from left to right; where the photo was taken; a tip to help other travelers; and contact information for you in case we have questions. But please, no submissions from previous years.

Submissions can be emailed to Becky Kover, bkover@dispatch.com.



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‘Raise the drawbridge!’: readers’ favourite UK castles | United Kingdom holidays


Winning tip: beautiful ruin, Gower peninsula

I grew up quite close to 12th-century Pennard Castle on the Gower peninsula and it enthralled me as a child; it’s a ruin but still obviously a castle and in my imagination it was full of knights on horses jousting and lots of arrow slits so you can ambush your mates. The castle’s situation is dramatic and beautiful: it is perched on the edge of the valley, with a sheer drop below to the north and west. From it there is a sweeping view out towards Three Cliffs Bay, among the most beautiful beaches in the UK. From Parkmill village you walk about a mile down Pennard Pill river through the woods before the castle reveals itself. It’s free to visit.
Piers

Oozing with history, Northumberland

Bamburgh CastlePCEE65 Bamburgh Castle and beach on a busy sunny summer's day, Bamburgh, Northumberland, UK. July 2018.
Photograph: James Hodgson/Alamy

On a rocky outcrop overlooking a golden beach in Northumberland, Bamburgh Castle still takes my breath away. Not only is the castle oozing with fascinating and rich history, it’s on of the most beautiful and underrated coastlines in the UK. I grew up in Newcastle so Bamburgh Castle was always somewhere we would enjoy as a family no matter the time of year. Costing £14.10 for adults and £6.95 for children, the castle also offers outdoor theatre and cinema experiences, craft and art days, historic re-enactments and much more.
Abbey Ramsey

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Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage

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Remember the rebels, Somerset

Outer wall and tower, Taunton Castle
Photograph: Greg Balfour Evans/Alamy

Twelfth-century Taunton Castle in the centre of town houses the excellent free-to-enter Museum of Somerset, including castle walls and a dry moat. It has displays of local and regional archaeology from fossils and prehistory to the Romans, Anglo-Saxons, and the Monmouth Rebellion (the castle was used for the Bloody Assizes). Great for adults and children alike. One gallery hosts temporary exhibitions (currently on Coleridge, who lived and wrote in Somerset) and there is a lovely cafe, shop and a very pretty courtyard.
Lucy

Spectacular views, Lincoln

Lincoln Castle
Photograph: travellinglight/Alamy

A large fire-breathing dragon burst through the wall beneath Cobb Hall, once the site of public executions. It’s a strange welcome for visitors to Lincoln Castle. Within the castle walls, the intact Victorian prison with its unique chapel offers a glimpse into Lincolnshire’s criminal past, while the modern Magna Carta Vault displays the original 1215 document and links history to present day. A stroll around the medieval battlements provides spectacular views of Lincoln Cathedral, the city and surrounding countryside. Free guided tours recount the castle’s 1,000 years of history. The informative and entertaining staff will regale you with tales of dark deeds, pardons, escapes and much more. Admission £15/£8.30.
Sue Bell

‘Cor, that’s steep’, Harlech

Harlech Castle, Mountains of Snowdonia National Park beyond
Photograph: Jon Arnold Images Ltd/Alamy

You can hardly walk around a bend in Wales without tripping over a castle. But as you drive around a bend on the A496, the view of Edward I’s Harlech Castle atop a rocky outcrop is particularly magnificent. It’s not a huge castle but there’s still plenty to see. It’s very well maintained and the views from the top are exceptional. There’s a small pay-and-display a short walk from the entrance, but don’t get caught out by turning down the “world’s steepest street” next to it (Ffordd Pen Llech at 37.45% took the title from a road in Dunedin, New Zealand in 2019). The castle has a small cafe, or there are options in the village. Admission £8.30/£5.80.
Sarah Malcolm

Clifftop perch, Ayrshire

Culzean Castle
Photograph: Allan Wright/Alamy

Arrive early for stunning 18th-century Culzean Castle, on top of a cliff on Scotland’s west coast. The castle interior wows from the start, with a huge display of flintlock pistols in the entrance hall, continuing with an elegant Robert Adam staircase and reception rooms, including President Dwight Eisenhower’s apartment. Clamber down to the beach to explore rock pools for urchins and starfish, or spot waterfowl at the swan pond. Visit the lovingly tended walled gardens and orangery, or wander the 260 hectares of country park, with llamas and red deer. Kids will love the Adventure Cove and Wild Woodland play parks. Home Farm kitchen provides good food, but there are also picnic areas. With so much to explore the admission price of £18.50/£10.50 is good value.
Berni G

Siege mentality, Kent

Rochester Cathedral as seen from the castle.
Rochester Cathedral as seen from the castle. Photograph: Pawel Opaska/Alamy

We absolutely loved our day trip to Rochester Castle, an impressive early-12th-century structure on the banks of the River Medway, which has survived no fewer than three sieges during the 13th century, and in 1381 was ransacked during the Peasants’ Revolt. We roamed the ruins and explored the passageways for a few hours and got a real feel of what the castle would have been like when it was inhabited. The views of the historic city from the top were stunning. After our visit, we enjoyed a picnic on the lawn and then explored the neighbouring cathedral. It’s an English Heritage site, costing £7.40 adult, £3.20 child.
Jay Gee

Dunes, stones and ruins, Bridgend

People using old stepping stones to cross Ewenny River at Ogmore Castle
Photograph: Joan Gravell/Alamy

A two-in-one treat, Ogmore Castle and Candleston Castle, both free-to-visit ruins, stand on opposite sides of the River Ogmore in south Wales between Bridgend and Porthcawl, about 600 metres from each other. Stepping stones link the banks of the broad stream. Ogmore is thought to have been built at the beginning of the 12th century, while its 14th-century neighbour, Candleston, stands on the edge of the Merthyr Mawr nature reserve and its sand dunes – some of the highest in the UK. When you’ve had your fill of castles and sand, snag a waterside table at Hilary and Iain by Sea for fish and chips with a view of the endless sea traffic on the Bristol Channel.
Jayne

Doing time, Dartmoor

Lydford castle
Photograph: Ian Woolcock/Alamy

Lydford Castle, built in the 13th century on the western edge of Dartmoor, has been a destination for picnics, nature walks, peaceful sunbathing and treasure hunts for four generations of my family. Its spacious grounds and quiet, unspoilt location in a pretty village make it a rare gem. However, its history is not all sweetness and light, as the tower was used as a prison. One of its most famous inmates was Richard Strode, MP for Plymouth, a tinner jailed in 1510 after complaining that mining debris in the moorland rivers was silting up the harbour at Plymouth. He described the castle as “one of the most annoious, contagious and detestable places wythin this realme”. Visiting it is free, as is the parking.
Claire

Lovely buns, Skipton, North Yorkshire

Skipton Castle Woods.
Skipton Castle Woods. Photograph: Steven Amani/Alamy

Late 11th-century Skipton Castle, survivor of a three-year siege during the English Civil War (it was occupied by royalists) is a superb place to visit. The guides are knowledgable and entertaining and the dungeons particularly terrifying. The kids can follow a picture trail and spot interesting things. Rather more pleasant were the buns and cake in the cafe. And the grounds and ancient woodland of Skipton Castle Woods are great for a burst of fresh air after your visit. Often you’ll find archers demonstrating their talents there. Entry is £10.20 adult £6.90 child. The castle is the start of the 100-mile Lady Anne’s Way long-distance path to Penrith
Joanne Casper



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‘Mesmerising and tranquil, with dolphins everywhere’: readers’ favourite boat trips | Boating holidays


Winning tip: Evening cruise with supper, Tokyo

On sultry summer evenings in Tokyo, it can feel like you’re sleeping under a sweaty horse … humid and oppressive. An evening yakatabune cruise is perfect for catching the breeze on the waters of Tokyo Bay. These small, traditional boats, necklaced with lanterns, have transported centuries of sightseers on moon-watching and cherry-blossom parties. Now, they offer sumptuous dinners afloat. As our flamboyant chefs tossed knives and chopped ingredients to prepare Edo-style food, we floated past the illuminated Rainbow Bridge, Tokyo Tower and the Skytree. We ate at low tables, and the atmosphere was cheery and relaxed, helped by free-flowing plum wine and cooling evening breezes.
From about £60 depending on menu, yakatabune-tokyo.com
Caroline Picking

Highland boat fling

MV Sheerwater moored in Arisaig.
MV Sheerwater moored in Arisaig. Photograph: Stephen Finn/Alamy

The MV Sheerwater trip from Arisaig (seven miles south of Mallaig on Scotland’s west coast) to the Small Isles is a real treat. It calls itself a ferry but that belies the magic of it. It’s a tiny boat with a knowledgable, friendly local skipper, and although you’ll depart on time, you’ll arrive only when there’s nothing more of interest to be seen in the sea – whales, seals, dolphins, birdlife, the lot. The journey is the adventure.
arisaig.co.uk
Abi

Broad wildlife knowledge, Norfolk

A reed bed on Horsey Mere.
A reed bed on Horsey Mere. Photograph: AA World Travel Library/Alamy

Ross knows so much about the wildlife and broads which he is keen to share. The trip runs from Horsey Staithe and takes you out across Horsey Mere and into the narrow channels through the reed beds. All you can see are reeds, the tops of windmills and church towers. The wind rustles through the reeds, murmuring as it has done for generations. The birdlife is varied and prolific and Ross spots them, pointing them out and enabling us to be looking in the right direction as the heron launches itself skyward or to peer into the reeds to see the small birds nesting.
Adult £10, child £8, nationaltrust.org.uk
Jane Howard

Blue Grotto, Malta

Blue Grotto in Malta
Colours of sea, rock and flora captivate visitors on boat trips to the Blue Grotto. Photograph: Evgenii Parilov/Alamy

From the picturesque harbour at the foot of Wied iż-Żurrieq, on Malta’s south coast, little boats that chug around the coast for a 20-minute trip to the seven caves comprising Malta’s Blue Grotto (€8, cash only). Clear sunny days are when the magic occurs; the blue of the sky reflects off the seabed under the caves, turning the water to brilliant turquoise. At the same time, the cave walls bounce back the vivid colours of the underwater flora, with captivating displays of iridescence and colour. When you disembark, walk up to Iz-Zurrieq village for a lunch of fresh fish, with sea views: Il Corsaro restaurant is lovely. There’s also a viewing platform for landlubbers.
Berni G

San Juan islands, Washington, US

Sunset at Friday Harbor.
Sunset at Friday Harbor. Photograph: Bjorn Bakstad/Getty Images

Not well known within the US, let alone outside, the San Juan islands in the Pacific north-west are an absolute joy, and made even more spectacular by the ferry journey out and back between Anacortes (a 90-minute drive north of Seattle) and the islands, including the most popular, Friday Harbor. On warm but rarely hot summer days, you’ll spot porpoises and eagles as the ferry weaves between the islands, gaze at a backdrop that includes tMount St Helens and Mount Rainier, and perhaps dream of staying in one of the lovely villages and homes dotted on each island as you drift by, all of which makes for a truly memorable boat trip. To the west is Vancouver Island, and more extraordinary sea journeys.
wsdot.com
Kelvin

Pedal for your life, Amsterdam

Taking a boat, or pedalo, under Amsterdam’s bridges can be fraught, our tipster reports.
Taking a boat, or pedalo, under Amsterdam’s bridges can be fraught, our tipster reports. Photograph: Jorg Greuel/Getty Images

My most memorable boat trip was a pedalo in Amsterdam soon after I got married. The sun was shining and the views of the city were incredible, but the real excitement came when we had to nip under a bridge with a packed tour boat honking its horn behind us, and another waiting to come through from the other side – my calves have never had such a workout! Our marriage survived, we’ve laughed about it a lot since, and the beer once we were back on terra firma was one of the best tasting ever.
stromma.com
Bethan Sayers

Dreamlike castle, north-east Germany

Pfaffenteich, Schwerin
The ‘elegant tree-lined’ Pfaffenteich. Photograph: Imagebroker/Alamy

In Schwerin, former ducal seat turned capital of the German state of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, elegant, tree-lined Pfaffenteich (padre’s pond) lies between the train station and the city centre. It’s crisscrossed by the Petermännchenfähre (little Petermann ferry – named after the castle’s household spirit) and offers splendid views of the cathedral for €2. Now that you have got your sea legs, head over to the dreamlike castle (modelled after Château de Chambord) from where the ferry’s big brothers depart for tours of Lake Schwerin, Germany’s fourth-biggest lake.
nahverkehr-schwerin.de
Marcus

Dolphins off Madeira

Gulls and a common dolphin off Madeira.
Gulls and a common dolphin off Madeira. Photograph: Eugene Sergeev/Alamy

The beautiful seas of Madeira gifted me one of the most memorable experiences of my life – careful to choose an ethical dolphin-watching experience, we embarked aboard a traditional Madeiran boat and set out across the clear seas. Before long, a pod of bottlenose dolphins surrounded us and started playing in the surf of the boat, leaping out in front. The boat stopped and there were dolphins in every direction – calves with their mothers and adolescents clowning around. You would have needed eyes in the back of your head to take it all in. I leaned over the edge of the boat and experienced one of the most mesmerising and tranquil sights I have ever seen.
Adult €44, child €22, lobosonda.com
Sarah

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Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage

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Swimming with the stars, Panama

Bioluminescence under the Milky Way (pictured here in Tasmania)
Bioluminescence under the Milky Way (pictured here in Tasmania). Photograph: James Stone/Alamy

Swimming with bioluminescent plankton is the closest I’ll come to being an astronaut. While travelling around Central America on a shoestring budget, we visited Bocas Del Toro, an area of brilliant beaches, islets and rainforest in Panama, having heard a rumour that you could “swim among the stars”. After dark we set sail away from any artificial light, arriving at a pitch-black lagoon and, with snorkels, we jumped in and the vibrations lit up the entire lagoon like a galaxy full of stars. A rare otherworldly experience that cost just $25.
kawivoyage.com/bioluminescence
T Miller

South Island lake on an island in a lake, New Zealand

Mou Who island.
Mou Waho island. Photograph: Cathy Hartman/Alamy

Wanaka on New Zealand’s south island is a hip little lakeside resort. When you’re there you can catch a 25-minute boat ride to Mou Waho – a really special tiny predator-free island that’s a haven for native wildlife. But the really special thing is that Mou Waho has its own lake – Arethusa Pool – with an islet inside it. From here you can look back to Wanaka and west to snowy peaks – standing on an island in a lake on an island in a lake. A boat trip into a mind-bending landscape. There are no ferries to this valuable eco reserve; you have to join a guided trip.
newzealandtrails.com
Phillipa Hughes



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Stunning vistas, sumptuous food: readers’ favourite Alpine ski cafes and restaurants | Skiing holidays


Winning tip: Strudel in the sun: Zermatt, Switzerland

If you are skiing or walking near Zermatt, a visit to the 2,130-metre-high Chez Vrony in Findeln is not to be missed. It is located next to an easy ski run and is easily accessible on foot in summer months too. It is like walking into someone’s beautiful house, cosy chairs, log fires, a sunny terrace and a view of the Matterhorn to die for. My favourite time is mid-afternoon when the lunch crowds have gone, and you can sit in the sun on the terrace and enjoy homemade apple strudel with vanilla sauce, washed down with the best glühwein you’ll find anywhere in the Alps. The only difficult part is motivating yourself to leave.
Jayne Pearson

Skiing with sausages: La Plagne, France

Belle Plagne.
Belle Plagne. Photograph: Roger Cracknell 01/Alamy

If you’re looking for a morning coffee stop in the La Plagne ski area with super service, delicious coffee and a sun trap terrace, look no further than Carlina in Belle Plagne. Its central location and ski-on, ski-off access makes it the destination of choice on a relaxed “food-first” ski trip. It also has a superb lunch menu with a reasonably priced plat du jour and classic French mountain meals such as diot (sausage) and tartiflette (made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons and onions). If you’re in the area it’s not one to miss. Coffee is about €7 for two and dishes €16-€25 each.
Marcus Standish

Beer and schnitzel on high: Kitzbühel, Austria

Kitzbuhel
Photograph: hs001jde/Alamy

Refuel and refresh with a traditional schnitzel paired with a cold crisp beer while basking in the picturesque panoramic views of the Austrian Alps. Situated 1,800 metres up, in the heart of the Kitzbühel ski area is the Sonnenrast restaurant. Being just across from the Fleckalmbahn gondola means skiers of all abilities have access to this mountaintop eatery. The Sonnenrast offers traditional Austrian dishes along with hot and cold beverages, which can be enjoyed on the beautiful wooden terrace; this star attraction wraps around the building providing spectacular views of the mountain terrain. Dishes start at about €15.
Thea

A view to a hill: Hochgurgl, Austria

Mountain Star

You can almost hear the James Bond theme tune playing as you reach the Top Mountain Star in Obergurgl-Hochgurgl. Perched on a narrow ridge of the Wurmkogel peak, this glass structure with a Swarovski studded bar on a ridge at 3,080 metres really is a cafe with a view – a 360-degree panorama across the Ötztal Alps. Truly breathtaking. There is a black run down but if you don’t fancy that there is a long blue track and failing that you can use the lifts to go on foot. Ice cool!
Samantha Little

Barnstorming côte de boeuf: Samoëns, France

Giffre valley.
Giffre valley. Photograph: MichaelGrant/Alamy

A slightly tricky but doable red piste downhill, or a 40-minute snowshoe up, and you arrive at Grand Crêt 17, the 300-year-old barn that Onno and his family have spent the past four years restoring. It’s beautiful inside and out, with a breathtaking view of the Giffre valley and the landmark Criou mountain above Samoëns in the Grand Massif. Expect a delightful warm tuna niçoise, super garlicky chicken or the massive côte de boeuf, all cooked on the barbecue in summer or winter. Leave space for great puds, too. Mains are €20ish.
V Young

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Elephant in the room: Laax, Switzerland

Das Elephant, Switzerland
Photograph: Dani Ammann

We stumbled upon Das Elephant on a ski trip. Our snowboard crazy boys were blitzing the black runs and … well, their parents weren’t! In search of a hot drink and a radiator we were just blown away by the views from this restaurant at 2,475 metres above sea level on a mountain called Crap Masegn. The food is also superb (its signature dish is penne from the parmesan loaf but there’s also cream of rocket and wasabi soup with prawns, and slow cooked beef with polenta among menu favourites) and is mentioned by Michelin. There is also an intriguing backstory to the place: in 1992, as part of the Crap Art (a reference to the mountain’s name, not the art’s quality) cultural event, an elephant was a guest for four days on the mountain Crap Sogn Gion, leading to the restaurant being named after it.
Ceri Fitzpatrick

Winter warmer in a white-out: Mürren, Switzerland

The restaurant at Sonnenberg will always feel like home. On one holiday to Mürren, all the ski lifts were closed due to a heavy snowfall. Undeterred, my family and I hiked up the mountain through the woods in a total white-out. After several chilly hours walking, we noticed the smell of wood smoke and spied some glowing lights through the fog. When we got to the door, the Sonnenberg’s proprietor welcomed us with warming bowls of gulaschsuppe in an otherwise empty dining room. Years later, we returned to the Sonnenberg to discover its fantastic views of the Jungfrau, something we had missed out on through all that snow. Charlotte

Chalet of chocolate: Three Valleys, France

A characterful 120-year-old chalet, hung with family photos, Le Corbeleys is unfailing in its warm welcome and hot, hot chocolate. Serving homemade Savoyard fare – diots €20 and blueberry tart €8.50 – this is great value in the Trois Vallées, where lunch can command silly money. Enjoy spectacular views from the large deck or cosy up inside in a nest of sheepskins and red gingham, hang your gloves to steam by the log burner and sip a vin chaud from the neat little bar. Fitting reward after burning down the rollers of epic blue run Jérusalem (formerly a red run but now reclassified). The chalet is on the plateau between Saint Martin 1 and 2 lifts, above Saint Martin de Belleville.
Caroline Elderfield

Doling out dumplings in the Dolomites: Val Gardena, Italy

The Dolomites are the most beautiful mountains in Europe, and I’m hugely looking forward to returning there very soon. Even though it’ll be four years since I last skied in the area, I feel sure of a warm welcome at Muliné above Selva Val Gardena. It’s just off the Saslong B red piste above the romantic, ski-in, ski-out Fischburg castle. The interior perfectly exemplifies the concept of gemütlichkeit (good cheer). The food is the marvellous mixture of north Italian and Austro-German that you get in the Alto Adige/Südtirol, with lots of meat and cheese and dumplings. If I’m skiing I’ll avoid the wine list, but if I go back in the evening…
Martin Lunnon

Meat and gravy – yum! Near Innsbruck, Austria

Growing up in Birmingham, a mixed grill was the ultimate pub lunch. Every meat imaginable, egg and chips. So when I saw mixed grill on a menu at the Bärenwirth in Patsch, just south of Innsbruck, I thought, why not? Cosy timbered restaurant with Alpine views. Bring it on! But, ugh – potatoes, slimy vegetables (yuck) and gravy. Yes there was meat, but just one kind. To be polite and not to betray my ignorance, I had to at least have a crack. And on a month-long trip around Europe, it proved to be hands down the best meal I ate. I even mopped up the gravy with the bread. Added bonus of staying in the hotel above, balcony overlooking a Tirolean church backed by not one, but two stunning V-shaped valleys.
Antony T



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‘An abundance of blooms’: readers’ best spring flowers in the UK and Europe | Walking holidays


Winning tip: Visions in pink and blue, the Azores

The Azores, an archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean, is one of the remotest parts of Europe. Often considered the European Hawaii, with a strong volcanic presence, from black sand to geysers, the Azores are also known for their incredible hydrangeas, which frame houses and line roads and pathways all over the islands, and start flowering in spring. One of the central, smaller islands, Faial, boasts the largest collection of hydrangeas in varying shades of blue, so much so that it has the nickname Blue Island.
Nadia, Aberdeen

Confetti canopy, Norfolk

Cherry blossom
Photograph: Yoshio Tsunoda/Rex

Norwich is a hidden gem in itself, but if you do venture east be sure to visit Eaton Park, covering 80 acres and designed by Captain Sandys-Winsch. Opened in May 1928 by the Prince of Wales, it is a perfectly wonderful place to enjoy the beauty of nature, especially in spring under a canopy of pink and white confetti from the most beautiful cherry trees in our county. There is so much else on offer too – domed bandstand, boating lake, lily pond, pitch and putt, miniature railway and formal gardens.
Suze, Norwich

Spring renaissance, Florence

Wisteria in Villa Bardini, with a view of Florence.
Photograph: David Dolci /Getty Images

The garden of Villa Bardini, in Florence, is not on most tourists’ must-see lists; and yet the blooming of its wisteria signals the beginning of spring for most Florentines. The long pergola on which the flowers rest leans into one of the most beautiful views of the city, framing it with Florence’s own colour, purple. I always find the scene to perfectly encapsulate the gracious beauty of the city, whose very name means “blooming”. You could write an entire history of the city through its flowers and gardens: the wisteria in Villa Bardini; the roses in the nearby Giardino delle Rose; and the wild, purple fleur-de-lys springing from the sides of the cobbled streets.
Bianca Belli, London

Lovely laburnam, Conwy

Laburnum arch and azaleas at Bodnant Gardens, Conwy.
Photograph: Alamy

At whatever time of year you visit Bodnant Garden in north Wales’s Conwy Valley, there’s something colourful to see. But my favourites are flowering now: the large magnolia trees are truly magnificent, as are the hellebores. There are fields of daffodils alongside more formal landscaped terraced gardens and woodland glades. The gardens are famous for their rhododendron bushes and, in late spring, laburnum.
Graham Dean, Heysham, Lancs

Fiesta in flower, Valencia

Sierra Aitana, Spain, with almond trees in bloom.
Photograph: Sonia Bonet/Getty Images

Footsteps tread the winding path, adorned either side by an abundance of wildflowers. A wind whips through the alpine meadows, but the warmth holds in the Valencian hills. Rabaniza blanca (wall rocket) spreads like wildfire, under the blossoms of the late almond tree. A faint nutty aroma infiltrates the air, masking eager senses from a sombre seed. Two eagles circle above, glimmers of gold tainting their feathered coats in an aerial rendition through the southern skies. The bountiful Relleu valley thrives in this temperate climate, bearing hope and beauty with spring awakening – I say “muchas gracias for this rare fiesta”.
Jenna Rainey, Bath

Thriplow Gold, Cambridgeshire

Daffodils in the Thriplow.
Photograph: Geoffrey Robinson/Alamy

Take a trip to Thriplow (silent “h”), eight miles south of Cambridge, and you will be greeted by hundreds of daffodils at every turn, arrays of yellow to brighten even the greyest spring day. Following a successful fundraiser for church roof repairs in 1969, the village holds an annual Daffodil Weekend, incorporating a country fair and raising money for local charities. This year it takes place on 19-20 March (£10 adult, £5 child, online tickets only). There is even a variety of daffodil named after the village – the Thriplow Gold.
Sharon Pinner, Haslingfield, Cambridgeshire

Monet’s garden, France

Claude Monet’s garden with wisteria in blossom.
Photograph: Alamy

A strolling local, seeing me admiring the flowers in the Jardin des Tuileries last spring, advised me to take a short day trip to Giverny – the home and gardens of Claude Monet, which inspired his impressionist paintings. The scene was like Monet’s own canvas – climbing rose bushes, pink cherry trees, weeping willows and flowerbeds of dahlias, irises and wisteria. I almost expected to see elegant ladies promenading along with delicate parasols, although the floral display was a sensual feast in itself. The best view is from the Japanese bridge. Take the train from Gare Saint-Lazare, a 40-minute trip. Entry from €12.50/7.50.
Jasmine, Cambs

Tombs and bells, Tower Hamlets

Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park.
Photograph: Helen Jackson

One of London’s “Magnificent Seven”, Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park may not be an obvious choice for spring flowers, but if you download a map and follow the well-marked Heritage Trail you’ll find an abundance of blooms. There are clumps of blue and white bluebells, cowslips, primroses, cow parsley, wild garlic and many more species. Towards the end of our visit, we came across a path lined with bright red tulips, which stood out among the blue and yellow shades. Entry is free and there’s also an audio trail introducing you to the plants and their connection to people.
Helen Jackson, London

Liquid gold, Bulgaria

The Rose Valley near Kazanlak.
Photograph: Kikagogo/Getty Images/iStockphoto

I would head to Rose Valley, near Kazanlak in Bulgaria. This valley is known for its rose-growing industry and production of liquid gold, ie rose oil. Roses begin blooming in mid-May and continue until mid-June. They hold a month-long rose festival in June, annually, where you can participate in rose-picking, a festive parade and other cultural activities. All the outside events apart from rose picking are free to enter, too! It’s just the perfect getaway for flower lovers.
Humaira, Leicester

Wild daffodils, Gloucestershire

Daffodils in Dymock Woods, Gloucestershire.
Photograph: Alamy

The wild daffodils of Dymock and Kempley in Gloucestershire are a heartwarming sight. There are lots of options for walks – you can drive or cycle, as it covers quite a large area. My favourite is Saint Mary’s Church, Kempley, which has beautiful medieval decorations as well as a churchyard full of wild daffodils.
Andrew Tector



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Hello, Columbus: Readers share travel tips


The pandemic has taken a toll on travel during the past two years, but many people are starting to venture to destinations that they only dreamed of visiting last year.

Or if you are staying a bit closer to home for your adventures, that’s great, too! Hello, Columbus would love to have a photo of you and your family or friends at your travel destinations.

Regardless of whether you are sending us a photo from near or far, choose a vacation photo showing you, your companions and the Travel page, and send it to The Dispatch. Make sure to include the names and hometowns of the people pictured, from left to right; where the photo was taken; a tip to help other travelers; and contact information for you in case we have questions. But please, no submissions from previous years.

Submissions can be emailed to Becky Kover, bkover@dispatch.com.



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‘A group of drinkers with a writing problem’: readers’ favourite literary haunts | Travel writing


Winning tip: Dublin’s literary giants

“A group of drinkers with a writing problem.” That’s how our guide introduced the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl (£15pp for two-hour tour), an unforgettable, interactive tour-cum-street-theatre around the drinking establishments beloved of James Joyce, Brendan Behan, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett. We had an amazing evening, learning about the colourful lives and times of these literary greats. It included a memorable visit to Trinity College and a literary quiz. The following day’s visit to the James Joyce Cultural Centre, in a stunning Georgian townhouse, was equally fascinating. Ditto the Dublin Writers Museum in Parnell Square with its replica Book of Kells among many exhibits ancient and modern.
Moira

Love and war in Zennor, Cornwall

DH Lawrence described Cornwall as the best place he’d been to despite his troubles there.
DH Lawrence described Cornwall as the best place he’d been to despite his troubles there. Photograph: John Keates/Alamy

I remember reading about DH Lawrence’s turbulent time in Zennor, Cornwall, when sweeping along the bracing coast on a local bus. Lawrence moved there during the first world war with his German wife Frieda, looking to escape stifling London after having had his book The Rainbow banned and being subject to travel restrictions. But he also found himself harassed by some locals in this rural idyll. He and Frieda would, reportedly, sing songs in German while traversing the lush landscape and may have got involved in a brawl or two in the local pub (The Tinner, still going strong). It all ended in tears, and the police ended up evicting Lawrence from the county, accusing him of spying. Still, he described it as the best place he had been. The cottage that he rented is still there and was owned by author Michael Morpurgo around the time he wrote War Horse.
Kathleen

The Bard and the beautiful, Stratford-upon-Avon

River Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon.
River Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon. Photograph: Tu xa Ha Noi/Getty Images

It may be a cliche, but Stratford, without the influx of tourist coaches, is a revelation. A walking tour of the town (booked at tourist information) is a fascinating insight into the growth of a medieval town and how Stratford’s position on the London trade route may have given Shakespeare a view into a much bigger world. Then there are the theatres, the traditional pubs, the houses that provide a view of life in the past and the fabulous Compton Verney art gallery (adult £17, child free) a few miles away with its six fascinating permanent exhibitions featuring works by artists as diverse as Canaletto and Enid Marx, and – until 6 March – a beautiful light trail.
Ann

Earliest known female English author, Norwich

The Church of St Julian.
The Church of St Julian. Photograph: Karen Fuller/Alamy

Tucked away in a Grade I-listed parish church, itself hidden in a narrow street, there is a shrine to Julian of Norwich. This is a reconstruction of the dwelling place of the earliest known female English writer. The anchoritic cell in which she wrote the longer version of her Revelation of Love offers a gateway into a unique literary mind of the 14th century. It is also a uniquely contemplative space, allowing each visitor to be alone with their thoughts and at peace, just as Julian must have been. Saint Julian’s Church, in Saint Julian’s Alley, off Rouen Road, is open every day 9am to around 4pm, and free to visit.
GG

Castaway in a fine old pub, Bristol

The Llandoger Trow.
The Llandoger Trow. Photograph: NJphoto/Alamy

The Llandoger Trow is a pub and restaurant in the Bristol waterfront area. This stunning 17th-century building is said to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Admiral Benbow Inn in Treasure Island and as you sit there, you can picture the scene in the first chapter of the book. Stepping through the door on to the planked floor is like walking back to a time of pirates, skullduggery, rum and spittoons, but the literary history doesn’t end with Treasure Island. It is also said that Daniel Defoe met Alexander Selkirk in the Llandoger Trow about 300 years ago and his tale inspired him to write Robinson Crusoe. Any bibliophiles’ dream location.
Alyson Caddick

Monte Cristo made real, Marseille

Aerial view of beautiful city Marseille, France
Marseille … ‘The city still felt gritty, bustling and as proud as it had in the novel.’ Photograph: Olena_Z/Getty Images

I booked to visit Marseille purely based on reading The Count of Monte Cristo. The city still holds great resemblance to the vivid descriptions in Dumas’s book. The barren Château d’If prison, surrounded by glistening seas, the narrow streets of the old town, the diverse feel of the Noailles district and the coming and going of many boats that could take me away to all the places talked about in Dumas’s novel. The heat was lingering too, with warm summer nights that reminded me of when Edmond Dantès visited Mercédès. The city still felt gritty, bustling and as proud as it had in the novel, and despite the years of modernisation, I felt like I was walking in the footsteps of Dantès.
Maddy Warner

Bonfire of the Vanities, Florence

Piazza della Signoria square … where Girolamo Savonarola was executed in 1498.
Piazza della Signoria square … where Girolamo Savonarola was executed in 1498. Photograph: Aliaksandr Antanovich/Alamy

There are many literary reasons to visit Florence, but for me it is the plaque in Piazza della Signoria marking the place of execution of Girolamo Savonarola. Savonarola’s Bonfire of the Vanities in 1497 and his eventual hanging (which both took place in the square) form the background to George Eliot’s superb Romola.
Jeremy Reynolds

The trail to the Green Corrie, Assynt, Highlands

Assynt is strewn with remote lochans.
Assynt is strewn with remote lochans. Photograph: GeoJuice/Alamy

At the Loch of the Green Corrie is a wonderful book by Andrew Greig in which the author seeks to find and fish a remote lochan in Assynt, Scotland, at the bequest of his dying friend, poet Norman MacCaig. A few years ago I too set out to find the Green Lochan. A remote walk from the hamlet of Inchnadamph along a stalkers’ track, crossing numerous ice-cold streams, eventually led to the rocky ridge near Glas Bheinn, and from here, on the edge of the Green Corrie, I peered down into the remote loch, with the Eas a’ Chual Aluinn, Britain’s highest waterfall, in the distance. A truly dramatic and wild landscape, captured by the author and now framed in my mind for ever.
Paul Wilson

Words fly off the pages in Naples

Naples
Naples has an ‘energising exciting intensity’ captured in numerous novels. Photograph: ezypix/Getty Images

My recent visit to Naples was inspired, among other reasons, by the writers who have been influenced by the city. Sartre, Dostoevsky and Oscar Wilde were classic authors enchanted by the almost operatic quality of life there – from the ancient streets and markets to the sweeping views over the Bay of Naples to Vesuvius. Then there is Penny Green’s See Naples and Die and the more recent televised novels of Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Quartet. In every book and every moment I spent in the city there is a heady sense of living every moment with an energising exciting intensity.
Gonca

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Aix and pains, Provence, France

Yves Montand and Gerard Depardieu in Jean de Florette, based on Marcel Pagnol’s novel.
Yves Montand (left) and Gerard Depardieu in Jean de Florette, based on Marcel Pagnol’s novel. Photograph: Cinetext/Films A2/Allstar

I’ve loved Marcel Pagnol’s Jean de Florette ever since school days. It’s a story defined by its sumptuous geography. But a family trip to Provence to quench my thirst for pines and cypresses, the mistral, pastis and boules in a hilltop village didn’t pan out. Not quite. The car got stuck between two village houses, we completely failed to find the quaint centre of Aix despite staying nearby, and initially the best food we found was a kebab on a dimly lit corner. But we finally got some feeling of Jean de Florette as we ate a meal featuring grilled local sausage and pastis as the mistral gusted through the cypresses while watching rugby on a TV. A fan of one of the teams sitting close to us was the image of Yves Montand as César Soubeyran! Location? Avenue Marcel Pagnol of course.
Antony T



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